Less well known is the fact that, among his neighbors, living at Berggasse 6 from 1896 to 1898, was Theodor Herzl, the founder of modern Zionism. Literary editor and Paris correspondent of the Neue Freie Presse, Europe's leading liberal newspaper at the time, Herzl published his tract The Jewish State in 1896 and lived on Berggasse, like Freud, as a celebrated giant and a derided crank. (The two men never met, although Freud dreamt twice of Herzl; and 
although Herzl ignored the copy of "Interpretation of Dreams" Freud sent him, hoping for a review, Freud did psychoanalyze Herzl's son Hans years later, diagnosing the suicidal youth, not surprisingly, as suffering from a profound Oedipal conflict.)


Nothing commemorates the time Herzl spent on Berggasse, no plaque adorns the faücade of Number 6. Indeed, one might search Vienna in vain looking 
for any public mention of his name. Instead, Zionists hungry for a glimpse of history will have to settle for a slice of pizza at the Pizzeria Valentino or a drink at the Italian cocktail bar presently on No. 6's ground floor.In stark contrast, the Freud Museum seems to form the cultural and economic epicenter of present-day Berggasse. Almost directly in the 
middle of Berggasse's four blocks, it's all that might draw the non-Vienner down the street's biased slopes.Entering the building's Hapsburg-yellow foyer with its frosted, stenciled windows and its sinuous black vine-like stair railings, I'm momentarily overtaken by an sweeping sense of dominating presence, a palpable spirit of place, and before I can shrug it off as deriving from my own imagination, my wife Basha says to me, "Did you feel that?"

 We climb the stairs and ring the bell, as Dora and the Rat Man once did, and are soon in the rooms where Freud spent nearly 40 years, before he and his family were driven from their country by the Nazi SS and its 
local collaborators. Freud took all the apartment's furnishings to London when he fled and that is where they remained until 1968, when on a trip to the US, Dr. Josef Klaus, the Austrian Federal Chancellor, was embarrassed by questions about Vienna's conspicuous lack of Freudian commemoration. 
Responding to the Austrian government's request, Freud's daughter Anna returned the furniture from her father's waiting room, along with 79 pieces of his extensive collection of antiquities. (The rest, kept in 
London, are now on exhibit in the Freud Museum there.) The waiting room, restored in the mid-1990's, is where Freud and the members of his Vienna 
Psychoanalytic Society held their Wednesday evening meetings, the men of the group seated on its plush burgundy-upholstered sofa and chairs.

Although Berggasse had been, at the turn of the century, a step up for Jews like Freud and Herzl who moved there from the ethnic slums of the Leopoldstadt, behind the Prater on the far side of the canal, the street grew decidedly working class in the wake of Vienna's post-war occupation.Ten years ago, when Massi Baumgartner moved his playfully contemporary furniture shop Massi Design & Handels into Berggasse 30, the building was a -- (unable to remember the English word, Massi sends his pony-tailed assistant bouncing back into the showroom for a German-English dictionary; after consulting it, she returns to the sidewalk where we're standing to utter the word he needs) -- coal shop.
Now Massi's streamlined designs fill the light and airy showroom: shelves of elegant glass bowls and vases, desklamps resembling Picasso's sketches of Don Quixote, a wall of seemingly fluttering lightbulbs with 
wings. The street is gentrifying, Massi tells us, nodding to the exquisitely white Baroque building next to the Freud house. Once an auto parts factory, the restored ground floor will soon display custom-made 
English furniture.

Although the coal shop and other businesses have been (not unlike Freud) forced from the street, elbowed out by more fashionable replacements -- an ergonomic furniture store, the offices for Price Waterhouse -- a few hold-outs from the post-war years remain. Next to Massi's is a dingy key repair and schuhmacher, and across the street is a uniform shop for firemen. Near the top of the hill at Berggasse 3 is an army surplus store called Gelegenheitsschwemme. Every shelf and bin in its 
closet-like rooms is bursting with military merchandise, both new and antique, mostly from the Austrian army, although there are many items 
from the US, Russian and German armies, as well as Netherlander trousers, Belgian shoes, and Italian jackets. Kurt Hellmann inherited the store from his parents who opened shop in 1955 when the British, American, French and Russian occupying forces 
left Austria. In the wake of the Allies' withdrawal, Kurt's father came into possession of thousands of boots which he had to raffle off, so great was the demand for decent footwear in the ravaged Vienna of that time, and that is how the shop was born.
"And where do you get your merchandise these days?" I ask. "Well, we have to have some secrets," Kurt tells me 

Perhaps most emblematic of this era of the street's history is Mobel Beer at Berggasse 32 (the building where Freud's famous patient Dora 
lived before the war.) A block from the canal, at the corner of Hahngasse, Mobel Beer is an enormous second-hand shop run by Charlotte Beer.Signs in the windows proclaim, "Alle Mobel um 50% billiger!!!" and "Alles zum halben Preis." Plastic laundry bins of used clothing and tablecloths line its front walk. A canister of canes shares space with a tray of clocks and one of silverware and one of tools. There are stacks of luggage and an offering of old tape reels and neckties and string.Basha finds a pair of lace tablecloths, one hand-embroidered, both elegantly made, and pays less than two Euros (or two dollars) for each of them. 

The interior is dark and dusty for an Austrian shop, which is to say hardly dark and dusty at all, but darker and more dusty than the newer 
shops down the road. The walls and floors, brimming with books and records and ancient adding machines and typewriters, form a dizzying labyrinth of bargains.
For 100 Euros, you can buy a pair of big sturdy armoires."The only problem would be shipping them," Basha says, as we reluctantly make our way outside without having made a sizable purchase. The many restaurants on Berggasse seem to reflect its changing face as well. There's a Cafe Freud, of course, next to the Freud Museum, and two sushi restaurants peeking out from a couple of side streets. There are 
places for Chinese food and fish and a Mexican restaurant serving, according to its sign, "Acapulco Mexikanische Spezialitatan." There's even a gay coffeehouse called Berg at Berggasse 8 that turns into a gay bar at night. A row of rainbow-colored flags fly over its outdoor seating, which is almost full. A discreet pink triangle is incorporated into the sign it shares with Lowenherz, the gay bookstore next door. 
Inside, diners sit at table in a large open window. Basha orders a light summer salad which she says is extraordinary and I sip a beer. .

There are cafes on every block and more than half a dozen traditional "Wiener kuchen"*, all with outdoor seating. The most inviting of these is Wiener Beisl at Berggasse 24. Its menu features traditional Austrian dishes -- pork filet, roasted cutlets, beef steak, stuffed dumpling with cheese, black pudding - along with a reasonably priced vegetarian menu. At the foot of Berggasse, along the canal, is a bike trail which runs all the way to Germany. Sitting on a bench, Basha and I enviously watch the cyclists who whiz by on one of the 1,500 free "Vienna bikes" supplied by the city. (If you're lucky enough, you can find these blue or pink bikes locked at various stands inside the Gurtel, Vienna's inner city districts. A two-Euro coin inserted in a slot beneath its seat unlocks the bike and you can ride it all day and receive your coin back 
when you return it to its stand.) 

Overlooking the slow green waters of the canal, a bar called Summer Stage hosts concerts and art exhibits in its glass pavilion. Six sculptures rotate on motorized pedestals in its sculpture garden. Nearby is a sandy volleyball court next to a trampoline station for children. Parents heft large beers and eat nachos while the kids grow dizzy and faint. There's no knowing what Freud and Herzl, were either alive today, would make of their old street, no knowing what Freud would mutter to himself, as he passed Die Philosophie im Boudoir, an erotica shop with winged phallus-shaped candles in its window and a huge mural over its front door depicting a half-dressed peasant girl sneaking coquettishly into bed, nn knowing if Herzl would stop in at the Persian rug shop at Berggasse 14 and shake his head over the current situation in the Middle East with its proprietor Dr. Mohammi, but there's probably no better street in the entire world on which to sit in a cafŽ over a kaffee mŽlange and wonder about such things.

Nulo memorigas la tempo pasita da Herzl en Berggasse, nula plako ornas la fasado di Numero 6. Fakte, on povus serchar vane en Wien publika menciono di lua nomo. Vicee, Zionisti qui deziras videtar historio mustos saciesar da peco de "pizza" che la Pizzeria Valentino o drinkajo che la Italiana drinkeyo quo nun okupas la ter-etajo di Nro 6. 
Kontraste, la Freud-Muzeo semble formacas la kultural ed ekonomial epicentro di hodiala Berggasse. Preske exakte meze di la quar bloki di Berggasse, nur ol atraktus ne-Wienano decensar la penti dil strado.
Enirante la Hapsburg-flava foyero dil edifico kun olua frostita, punsita fenestri e sinuoza nigra vitatra eskalero-pasamano, me instante frapesis da sento di dominacanta prezenteso, palpebla spirito di loko, ed
ante ke me povas eskartar ol kom derivint ek mea propra imagino, mea spozino Basha dicas a me, "Ka vu sentis to?" (Durota)


Ni acensas l'eskalero e sonigas la klosheto, quale olim agis Dora e la Rat-Kaptisto, e balde eniras chambri ube Freud pasis preske 40 yari, ante ke lu e lua familio forpulsesis ek sua lando dal Nazi-SS e lokala kunlaboranti.Freud prenis omna mobli del apartamento a London kande il fugis, ed ibe
oli restis til 1968 kande dum vizito ad Usa Dr. Josef Klaus, l'Austriana Federala Kancelero, embarasesis da questioni pri l'evidenta manko di Freudana celebro en Wien.Responde demando dal Austriana guvernerio, Anna, filiino di Freud, retrodonis la mobli del varto-chambro, kun 79 peci de lua kolekturo di
antiquaji. (La ceteri restis en London, e nun expozesas en la Freud-muzeo ibe.) En la varto-chambro, restaurita dum la 1990a yari,
la kunveni di Freud e la membri di lua Psikoanalizo-Societo di Wien eventis merkurdie-vespere, la grupani sidinte sur la plusha reda sofai e stuli.(Durota)


Malgre ke Bergasse esabis, lor la yarcento-chanjo, avanco por judi quala Freud e Herzl qui translojis ad-ibe del etnala quarterachi dil Leopoldstadt, dop la Prater trans la kanalo, la strado divenis tre
laboristo-klasala pos la okupeso posmilita di Wien.
Ante dek yari, kande Massi Baumgartner translojigis sua moderna moblerio Massi Design & Handels aden Bergasse 30, l'edifico esis -- (ne rimemorante l'angla vorto, Massi sendas sua helpanto aden la butiko por
german-angla dicionario; pos konsultar ol, el retrovenas al trotuaro ube ni stacas por dicar la vorto bezonata) -- karbonerio.Nun la lineala desegni di Massi plenigas la lumoza, aeroza butiko:tabuli de eleganta vitra boli e vazi, lampi qui similesas la skisuri da Picasso di Don Quixote, muro de semble tremanta lumeti kun ali. La strado borgezeskas, Massi informas ni, indikante l'elegante blanka Baroka edifico apud la Freud-domo. Olim automobil-fabrikerio, la
restaurita domo balde vendos specale facita angla mobli.(Durota)

Malgre ke la karbonerio ed altra komerceyi ekpulsesis (quale Freud) ek la strado da plu segunmoda remplasanti -- *ergonomika moblerio,
kontori di Price Waterhouse -- poka restaji del posmilita yari restas.Apud Massi esas klef-reparerio e schuhmacher, e trans la strado esas uniformerio por pumpisti. Proxim la kolino-somito che Berggasse 3 esas armeo-butiko nomizita Gelegenheitsschwemme. Omna tabulo e korbo en olua chambreti esas plena de militaji, e nova ed antiqua, grandaparte del
austrian armeo, malgre multa kozi del Usana, rusa e german armei, ultre nederlandana pantaloni, belga shui ed italian jaketi.Kurt Hellmann heredis la butiko de sua genitori qui apertis ol en 1955 kande la britana, Usana, franca e rusa okupanta armei livis Austria.Pos la departo, la patro di Kurt posedeskis mili de boti, quin il mustis lotriar pro la demandego a bona shui en la devastita Wien lora, e tale la butiko naskis."Ed ube vu obtenas vua vari nuntempe?" me questionas. "Or, ni mustas havar kelka sekreti," Kurt informas me.(Durota)






Forsan maxim emblemala di ca epoko dil historio dil strado esas Mobel Beer che Bergasse 32 (l'edifico ube Dora, la famoza kuracato di Freud, lojis ante la milito). Proxim la kanalo, ye l'angulo di Hahngasse, Mobel Beer esas enorma brokantala butiko jerata da
Charlotte Beer. Signi en la fenestri proklamas, "Alle Mobel um 50% billiger!!!" e "Alles zum halben Preis".
Plastika korbi de uzita vesti e tuki esas alonge lua fronto. Buxo de kani dividas spaco kun pleti de horloji ed arjentaji ed instrumenti. Esas amasi de bagaji e kelka anciena rubandi e kravati e kordo.
Basha trovas paro de dentela tuki, un manu-brodita, amba elegante facita, e pagas min kam du Euri (o du dolari) po singla.(Durota)



L'internajo esas tenebroza e polvoza segun la normi di austriana butiko,to esas, apene tenebroza e polvoza, ma plu kam la plu nova butiko alonge
la strado. La muri ed etaji, plena de libri e registraji ed anciena adicion-mashini e mashin-skribili, formacas labirinto de chipaji.Po 100 Euri, on povas komprar paro de granda, robusta armori."La sola problemo esus expediar oli," Basha dicas, e ni nevolunte departas sen komprir ulo granda.
La multa restorerii an Berggasse semble reflektas lua chanjanta karaktero anke. Esas Cafe Freud, nature, apud la Freud-Muzeo, e du "sushi"-restorerii an adjuntanta stradi. Esas chiniana restorerii e mexikiana restorerio quo servas, segun sua signo, "Acapulco Mexikanische Spezialitatan". Esas mem *gaya kafeerio nomizita Berg che Berggasse 8 quo divenas gaya drinkerio nokte. Rango de multakolora flagi super l'extera sideyi, quo esas preske plena.Diskreta rozea triangulo kompozas lua signo dividita kun Lowenherz, la gaya librerio apud ol. Interne, dineanti sidas an tablo en grand apertita fenestro. Basha komendas lejera somer-salato, segun el extraordinara, e me drinketas biro.(Durota)



Esas kafeerii an singla bloko e plu kam sis tradicionala "Wiener kuchen", sempre kun extera sideyi. La maxim atraktiva esas Wiener Beisl che Berggasse 24. Lua menuo inkluzas tradicional
austriana dishi -- porko-fileto, rostita kotleti, bifsteko,
pasto-buli fromajoza, sango-sociso -- kun chipeta vejetara menuo.Baze di Berggasse, alonge la kanalo, esas biciklo-voyo til Germania. Sidante sur benko, Basha e me envidie spektas la biciklaganti qui
rapide pasas sur un del 1.500 gratuita "Wien-bicikli" provizita dal urbo. (Se on esas fortunoza, on povas trovar ica blua o rozea bicikli en diversa loki en la Gurtel, l'interna distrikti di Wien.Moneto-peco ye du Euri insertita sub la sidilo liberigas la biciklo,
ed on povas uzar ol dum tota jorno e ri-recevar sua peco lor retroveno al komenco-loko.)(Durota)

An la lenta verda aqui dil kanalo, drinkeyo nomizita Summer Stage aranjas koncerti ed art-expozi en sua vitra paviliono. Sis skulturi jiras sur motorizita piedestali en lua skulturo-gardeno. Proxime esas
sabloza *volebalo-korto apud *trampolineyi por pueri. Genitori levas granda biri e manjas "nacho"-i dum ke la pueri divenas vertijoza ed esvananta.
On ne povas savar quon Freud e Herzl, se li ankore vivus hodie, pensus pri sua olima strado, quon Freud murmurus a su dum pasar Die Philosophie im Boudoir, erotika butiko kun alizita penisatra
kandeli en la fenestro, ed enorma muralo super la pordo di mi-vestizita ruranino koketatre kushante; nek se Herzl vizitus la butiko di Persiana tapiseti che Berggasse 14 e kap-sukusus pri la nuna situeso en la
Proxim Oriento kun la proprietanto Dr. Mohammi; ma probable ne esas plu bona strado en la tota mondo por sidar en kafeerio drinkante kaffee
melange e kontemplar tala questioni.FINO